Electrical and air-conditioning pipe/duct after reinstallation. Old siding above (painted ugly pink), new primed-but-unpainted siding below. New Ply-Gem bathroom window in the upper right corner.

The old air conditioner probably uses older no-longer-legal Freon coolant; when that fails, we will replace it and the gas furnace with an electrically-powered heat pump.

Close-up of the reattachment area. The round black meter (attached with #8 screws to the siding) measures the negative air pressure created by the radon pump, the white bulb at the bottom of the exhaust pipe. The radon pump is powered through the (too long) gray plastic conduit, from the shutoff switch beneath the electrical outlet. Pump and outlet are powered through a romex running up the air-conditioner hose cover and through the air conditioner hole in the upper siding, then through the basement ceiling to the load center (circuit breaker box) on the north wall of the basement, 20A GFCI breaker #32.

Closeup of the attachment of the hose cover to the siding; I cut nine 5-inch-wide pieces of new lap siding (turned upside down) and lapped them upwards from the bottom. That created a bumpy overlap, so I faced the wall-side of the metal hose cover with compliant gasket material, attaching the whole shebang with wood screws.

The edges of these "lap shims" are unpainted and unprimed; those will be primed and painted in the spring. Or sooner, given instructions for priming or caulking.

Close-up of electrical area. The bottom lap board is wider on the left/south, with a round cutout for the dryer vent pipe and new vent cover. Four more 5 inch "lap shims" provide an approximately-flat surface for the air conditioner switch/fuse box, the radon pump shut-off switch, and the electrical outlet. These were all moved intact from the prior connection over the previous lap siding, and attached with screws

Note the unfortunate crack in the "siding shim" above the air conditioner switch box. We will either replace that piece, or caulk it. Probably best to replace the "two screw" cable clamp with a top-screw-only clamp, like the clamp just to the right of it.

Note the unfortunate "over-than-under" arrangement of the plastic conduit to the radon pump; before painting, I plan to disconnect that from the radon pump and reattach it properly "under-than-over". I will probably add more cable clamps, after the siding is painted.

The large hose clamp on the radon pump exhaust pipe is not screwed down. I will plan to attach it after the wall is painted.

The #8 attachment screws are probably long enough to penetrate the vapor barrier and sheathing; perhaps these will need additional caulking.